Epilogue to our Camino

Epilogue - well we had a Prologue

• We would recommend cycling or walking the Camino de Santiago de Compostela to anyone.
• Can be done in sections, over a number years.
• Great fellowship and camaraderie en route.
• No major mechanical or medical problems.
• Food was good standard and cheap.
• No language problems - even when resorting to sign language!
• Good will from Spanish locals all along the way.

We have heard that many of you have been following us on the blog and journeying with us in spirit.

Sorry that some who have tried have not been able to add comments.

Day 17

Day 17 Thurs 19th Sept Santiago last day

Final packing and clearing up the apartment, down to the courier to send home bikes, helmets and one pannier each. Left second pannier there for later collection and went for coffee before turning up (we thought early) for the noon Pilgrim Mass.

Cathedral was already quite full with all seats gone, but we managed to squeeze into gaps in a few pews in one of the transepts. Mass was preceded by announcements of where pilgrims had come from and which of the many Camino routes they had used, and a music rehearsal. As noon approached more people were coming into the Cathedral and were standing in the aisles.
Mass was impressive and at the end we witnessed the lighting of the 'Batafumeiro'. This is a large incense burner suspended from the roof and is hauled into place by eight men, and then swung across the main aisle from transept to transept, getting near to the ceiling on each side - a long standing tradition in Santiago.

Stroll around the town and a late lunch before collecting our panniers from the courier. Three bikes were being sent to Tony G's house and we enquired about expected delivery date. 'Tuesday' we were told and Tony realised he is going to Paris that day and won't be home. (Kev you better check he is not leading the 40+ ride on Tues).

Airport bus for 3Euros each, flights to Gatwick and train home. Tony O and Dan made it by 11-30pm, while Tony G and John got caught by delayed trains and replacement bus services getting home by 2am.

1mile - total 610 (got to include the ride to the courier!!)  about 970km

Lighting of the Batafumeiro

Batafumeiro swing across the transepts

Day 16

Day 16 Wed 18th Sept Santiago to the Coast

Quick breakfast, pick up the car and drive to the coast, coffee stop before getting to Fisterra - the end of the world. Visited the Cabo de Fisterra and lighthouse (uphill stage finish in 2013 Vuelta Espana), where Dan met a guy from Cork - at home he buys his daily newspaper from Dan's sister Maggie's shop - it's still a small world!!

After lunch we went on to Muxia which we are sure is better in high summer than at the end of the season.
In the evening we joined up with Pete and Sue from Watford (we met them on Day12) to share stories - they promise to try and join us on a FortyPlus CC St Albans Tuesday ride soon!!

0miles - total still 609 (excluding 150miles in car)

View towards Fisterra

Cabo Fisterra, and Camino 0km stone

Day 15

Day 15 Tue 17th Sep Santiago

After breakfast we went to check out the "MailBox" office we were to use to send bikes home on Thurs, all OK. Ambled around town and visited the interesting market. Relaxed lunch in a square and carried on wandering around the narrow pedestrian only area which is the 'historic centre' of Santiago. Went past the Pilgrim Bureau to see long queues of new arrivals in town, holding their passports eager to get their 'Compostela'.

Yesterday we got our certificate and today some of us got the tee-shirts - well we got Camino cycling jerseys. In the square outside the Cathedral among many new arrivals, we met four rugged and fit cyclists from Phoenix CC in Belfast - they had just completed the Camino completely off-road in a much quicker time than us!

We were interested in going to the coast - a bit too far to cycle so we went to the Tourist Office to see about trips, and ended up hiring a car for tomorrow.

In the evening went for a meal - in the same restaurant as David, David, Brendan and Gerry from Belfast. Plenty of banter with them and sharing of experiences. Also with some volunteers who are here for a fortnight working in the Pigrim Bureau, helping new arrivals and issuing them with their 'Compostelas'.

Dan and Tony O on way into town

Tony G looking for a bargain in the market

0 miles - total remains as 609

Day 14

Day 14 Mon 16th Sept Salceda to Santiago

Short hilly stage into Santiago. On the ´Grand Tours´ they would be sipping champagne as they approach the finish - but not for us. Stopped at City boundary to take photos and chatted to walkers from many countries.
Into the city and the Cathedral. Went to the Pilgrim Office (manned by volunteers from Tunbridge Wells) to get our ´Compostela´. This is a latin document certifying completion of the journey, demonstrated by the stamps in our passports collected along the way.

Tony G phoned Victor for our 2bedroom, 2 bathroom apartment with all facilities - including garden and bike storage in lounge behind the sofa! (don´t tell Victor). It is only 300m from the Cathedral.

Went to evening Pilgrim Mass and visited the sepulchre of St James (Sant Iago) and embraced the the statue above the high altar.

Went for a meal and chose a lively restaurant with great atmosphere full of locals. Sitting at the next table were Magda and Hugo - our Belgian cycling friends who we have met many times on the Camino.

Tony G insisted on taking us back via a short cut through the park.

Santiago City Limits!

Outside the Cathedral

Evening Pilgrim Mass

St James´ Relics below high altar

John, Hugo, Magda and Dan

Cathredral from our Apartment

19miles - total 609 (540miles from St Jean Pied de Port)

Day 13

Day 13 Sun 15th Sept Samos to Salceda

Books said today would be a hard day - so up early and on road by 8am (7am UK time so lights needed!). 8 Miles to Sarria for breakfast, then another 17miles for lunch at noon at Gonzar. We carried on via Palas de Rei to Melide for afternoon refreshments. Met the Belgain couple again who were staying in the hotel/restaurant.

As forecast today was full of ups and downs - we feel the hills aggregated into the big climbs of recent days. We are continuing to enjoy good weather - chilly mornings, hot afternoons, no rain, and wall to wall blue skies!

Staying at Aubergue Touristico, which was difficult to find but a newly built and lovely venue with interesting architecture. From the 9.50Euro menu Dan chose chicken, but was presented with what appeared to be lamb shanks. Chef was called and claimed this was not a supermarket chicken but locally reared like a turkey - agreed to replace with ordinary chicken. After consumption of the inclusive vino tinto and vino blanco this produced much merriment for the rest of the evening. For further details please discuss with Dan - but allow plenty of time!

Great scenery, great weather

66 miles total 590

Day 12

Day 12 Sat 14th Sep Villafranca del Bierzo to Samos

Today was to be the highest climb of the whole trip. After one hour climbing passed Belgian and NZ couples on bikes. We also  met a couple from Watford on hired bikes who prepared by doing a couple of trips on the towpath from Watford to Uxbridge - possible candidates for Forty Plus  CC St Albans rides. They are on the same flights as us going home - so drinks in the departure lounge. We kept on meeting the Belgian couple throughout the day.

The climb continued unabated to O´Cebreiro before lunch, where we had a long chat with a couple from Birmingham.

After a few ups and downs we has  a fast and furious descent for 10km - great fun for boys of all ages.

Ice creams and the final 10km took us to Samos. Here is the largest and oldest monastery in Spain - paid for for a tour with a only Spanish guide - we was robbed! An option was Mass followed by blessing of pilgrims in the Abbey church - then a 10Euro pilgrim Menu and so to bed.

Top of O'Cebreiro

42 miles - total 524

Day 11

Day 11  Fri 13th Sept Astorga to Villafranca del Bierzo

Headed for the hills after the Meseta Plain. Coffee and cake at Rabanal (after losing and finding each other again). Tony O met even more people who knew his relatives, proving the old adage that everyone is related to an Irishman.

The literal high spot (1504m) was laying stones at the Cruz de Ferro, these were taken from Tony O´s water feature in Arnos Grove which is now a bit bereft, but in a good cause. This for many pilgrims is an emotional point of the journey, symbolising laying down the burdens you carry with you.



Continued climbing and descending into Acebo for lunch, a small hamlet in the mountains. Descended through breathtaking scenery for 6 to 7 miles at 30 to 35mph, Dan peaked at 44.6mph! Tested the new Magnum Ice Creams (Five Kisses Apple Flavour) recommended by two Irish girls not related to Tony O.
Arrived at Villafranca del Bierzo after traversing a very rough walking track, causing John the embarrassment of having to get off and walk. Tony G wanted the walking track experience, but never again.

This was fiesta weekend at Villafranca del Bierzo which we observed from a bar/restaurant whilst having another pilgrim menu. Woken by fireworks at midnight!

At the Cruz de Ferro

John on the Camino

Other Pilgrims at Cruz de ferro

51miles - total 482

Day 10

NB - recent pages have been updated with photos.
Are any of you reading this - only one comment posted so far!!

Day 10 Thurs 12th Sept Leon to Astorga.

Five star breakfast in the Parador, collected bikes from Concierge, and set of over the old Roman bridge onto the Camino. At Pilgrim Mass last night the Argentinian priest encouraged us to visit ''La Virgen del Camino'' 5km out of Leon. This is a modern beautiful 1960's church but with the original 16th century altarpiece - another stamp for our pilgrim passports!

Lunch was in Hospital de Orbigo beside a 19 arch stone bridge which is over 200m long.

In Astorga - a small clean hilltop town with a Gaudi designed Bishop's Palace beside the Cathedral - we booked into a new ultra modern Spa Hotel with enormous leaves painted on the external walls. This was a complete contrast with yesterday's historic medieval Parador which once was San Marcos Monastery.

Usual chores of washing clothes resulted in John (him again!) flooding the bathroom floor, while the two
Tonys were splashing about in the luxurious basement spa. Again pushed the boat out with a 9euro Pilgrim Menu, incl wine - usually an excellent choice. This time we didn't understand the Spanish for runny cold chocolate dessert with a floating arrowroot biscuit until it was too late!

Early to bed as tomorrow promises to be a bit more challenging as we head into the hills - not ordinary hills, these are "M&S" hills.

We hear reports from home that the weather has turned for autumn - we ought to let you know it is excellent cycling weather here.

Tony G in the Spa

34miles - total 431

Day 9

Day 9 Wed 11th Sept - Sahagun to Leon

 Up and out of Hostal and 0.3mile dash to centre of town for breakfast. Then hit the Camino for our third day on the Meseta, closely following the walking route. Tony O gave a cheerful "Buen Camino" to a hobbling pilgrim with bandaged legs, not realising that he probably wasn´t having a Good Camino at that point! After John´s puncture yesterday, today he hit a drainage channel that went across the road and got a ´snake bite´ puncture (cycling term for a double nick in the inner tube). With only the quiet whirr of tyres on tarmac we came up silently behind a stationery walker who looked in to be trouble. Surprised to see us as he was relieving himself, he wet his walking stick. DIY lunch with food from a couple of shops eaten in the town square for 12Euros for 4 of us. Saw a Brasilian couple we met before - they bought their mountain bikes in Madrid.

Rolled into Leon and found it to be a very pleasant city and booked into the 5 star Parador behind a guy with a Porsche. Went through front door and up to Reception and asked where can we put 4 bikes. Concierge helped us wheel them through the marbled foyer with huge glass doors and found space in the locker room. As we had a frugal lunch we decided to eat in the Parador and Dan asked what time dinner was served, only to be told Restaurant opened at 9pm. Seeing Dan´s jaw drop the Receptionist held her hands up and said "... but you´re in Spain!" So we went for a stroll around town and a drink, and took the option to go to the Pilgrim Mass followed by the blessing of Pilgrims. One of the priests had dusty boots on under his vestments - he was Argentinian and doing the Camino - he also provided the English translation for the many English speakers at the Mass. Then invited into Sacristy for another stamp on our passports.

37miles - total 397

Outside San Marcos Monastery

now Parador de Leon

Reception Area and Staircase

Staircase leading down to Reception

Blessing of Pilgrims after the Pilgrim Mass

Day 8

Day 8 Tue 10th Sept - Fromista to Sahagun

 Today we continued crossing the Meseta - again excellent cycling country, often with the walking route along side the tarmac. Very little traffic, chatted to a couple of American ladies - Carol don´t read this bit - they were jealous of John´s silky smooth legs and enquired if he shaved them. Pilgrim menu for lunch in a Hostal and we reached Sahagun, which is the official mid-point of the Camino. We visited the "Sanctuario de la Peregrina" and we each got our Certificate of "Centrico Geographica del Camino" for a Senior Citizens rate of 2 Euros each. We´ve got the Certificate and John is the only one with the tee-shirt!!

Looking back over the last few days we realise John has been the Pilgrim who has sufferred the most - lost glove, broke his sunglasses, punctured, suncream and grit in his eye and chemists closed! Tony G has developed a reputation for making sure all our plates are clean! Sometimes even tucking in before the food hits the table! - only joking.

 43miles - total 360

Day 7

Day 7 Mon 9th Sept - Burgos to Fromista

Left Burgos via Monastery of Las Huegas. Today was a perfect day for cycling - on the Meseta Plain which is between 800m and 1000m. Easy terrain, gentle climbs, excellent views, and lots of stationery wind turbines - good news - no head wind! Pleasant morning coffee stop where John lost a cycling mitt, we think to a passing dog. Before lunch our cycling route converged with the walking route and we met and passed lots of pilgrims as we exchanged the greetings "Buen Camino" or "Hola".

Lunch venue was shared with a coach load of German pilgrims (doing Lourdes, Santiago, Fatima, etc) and they were interested in our trip and our Pilgrim Passports. In the afternoon we went to a small village, looked at the Church and the Auburgue for an ice-cream. Who else was there but Robert from Wiltshire - see blog for yesterday. Stayed in a Hostal in Fromista and had evening meal in the square.

52miles - total 317

Old Monastery ruins of St Anton

Canal before entering Fromista

Evening meal in Fromista

                         

Day 6

Day 6 Sun 8th Sept Quintanilla del Monte to Burgos

This morning we learnt that last night we stayed in an 'Enchanted Hamlet' - we had wondered what the corn dollies etc around the door signified. Weather first thing was misty and quite chilly - but we are at 800m above sea level. Actually on the road by 8-45am, a record, and passed many walkers already on the Camino path which was often adjacent to our tarmac route. Stopped for a coffee at a bar-cafe at a Camino junction and in came Robert from Wiltshire whom we first met in Biarritz - he recognised our bikes outside. Robert was cycling the actual walking route and sometimes pushing or carrying bike and luggage up hilly paths!
After coffee and climb out of Villafranco Monte - 6% for 3+km - our route became easier and the sun broke through and we enjoyed a relatively easy ride, at a steady 20mph with the wind behind us, and we got into Burgos just after midday.

Our plan had been to attend evening Mass in the Cathedral, but went to Mass at 1pm instead, which left us plenty of time for a leisurely lunch and easy afternoon. Our hotel is 300m from the Cathedral, we are on the 10th floor with fine views over the city. In the evening we strolled around the city centre and bumped into Robert again -such is the Camino- heading for evening Mass. Another great evening meal. We have enjoyed the camararderie and fellowship amongst the travellers of many nations, whether walking our cycling, as we greet each other with 'Buen Camino'.

34miles - total 265

Morning Coffee stop

Nearing Burgos

Burgos Cathedral

View from our hotel

Day 5

Day 5 Sat 7th Sept Viana to Quintanilla del Monte

Rode through streets of Viana which we didn´t see last night due to the hail and rain. On way out of Viana we saw snow/sleet at the side of the road from last nights downpour.
Went into Logrono to visit Cathedral and get another stamp on our Camino Passports.
Headed out on roads closely following the Camino walking route. Jackets on for a brief shower on our way to lunch in Najera.
On way to Santo Domingo de la Calzada we saw further signs of recession in partial and incomplete highway projects. Riding along the original main roads we had excellent surfaces with little traffic to bother us - much better than our usual Tuesday rides in Hertfordshire!!
With rumbling thunder and lighting in the distance we were caught in a heavy shower. We had great views of distant hills which were often covered in cloud and mist.
Afternoon tea - another Tuesday afternoon tradition with us - was in a bar a few km from our destination. Coffee and cake for 3 euros each while we watched la Vuelta live from the Pyrenees. Later read that two riders had to  retire due to hyperthermia.
We reached our destination hidden away from the main road in hamlet of Quintanilla del Monte - a small lovely family run guest house - great welcome and wonderful evening meal.

51miles - total 231miles

P.S. following a request from our international readership we have updated previous blogs to include dates! Thanks Maggie in Cork!

Day 3 and Day 4

Day 3 Thurs 5th Sept St Jean Pied de Port to Pamplona

Left St Jean Pied de Port via Sports Shop and headed to the unknown - the climb over the Pyrenees. Entered Spain quite soon and it went up - and up - and up! from 200m to 1057m.
Lunch (beer and sandwich) just over the top opposite the Monastery at Roncesvalles. Then followed a generally downhill ride to Pamplona - saw dozens of ´racing´cyclists out for late afternoon rides.
In Pamplona we had arranged to stay in a Franciscan Friary with a priest friend of Tony O - they met in Brasilia in 2012 and fr Gabriel invited us to stay with him. After showers and a conducted tour of the Friary we had supper with fr Gabriel in the Refectory and then went to the 8pm Parish Mass that he was celebrating - he introduced us to the congregation and included us in the prayers.
fr Gabriel then drove us into town for an extended walking tour showing us the sites and explaining every detail - the bull running route and its details, Plaza del Castilla the central square, Iruna Restaurant (Hemingway etc) and the Citadel.
We had a great welcome and enjoyable evening - thank you fr Gabriel devoting your time to us.

51miles - total 120

Day 4 Fri 6th Sept Pamplona to Viana

After breakfast in the Refectory fr Gabriel insisted on driving us out of town !!
He preceeded us in his car with flashing hazard lights on and led us through town and onto the road towards Viana, our next stop.
Thanks again to fr Gabriel.

We headed out of Pamplona through villages and often intersected the Camino walking route - riding alongside on tarmac surfaces.
We followed national routes which were nice and quiet due to adjacent newly built motorways. These roads were often wide, traffic free and well surfaced although they still had a few testing hills on them. The bonus was we had a number of long descents on clear roads often over 40mph - panniers helped. We felt we were seeing the real Spain when riding through small towns and villages.
Signs of recession were apparent with incomplete and unsold new housing developments.
We have enjoyed greatly the fellowship of other pilgrims and travellers throughout the day and at mealtimes, whether at lunch or in the evening. Today we met Australians, Dutch, South African, Russian, American and other Brits.
After we arrived in Viana just after 6pm, we booked in to our ´Palacio´, showered and were about to go out to eat when the heavens opened with a mighty downpour of hailstones. We ate in the Hotel Restaurant!!
We chatted with fellow diners from Germany and Australia.
Another good day on the Camino.

60miles - total 180

Day 1 and Day 2

Forgot to say our prologue was 15 miles up to St Pancras.

Day1 Tues 3rd Sept UK to Biarritz

Up at 4am to get first tube train to St Pancras and 0701 Eurostar to Paris, collect bikes from despatch and then take a gentle ride across the city. On the way held up by a procession of ceremonial horses guards (followed by three municipal road sweepers clearing up the muck!). We also went past and paused outside Notre Dame Cathedral just as the bells were ringing at noon for the ´Angelus´.
At Gare de Montparnasse in time to dismantle bikes, put in cycle bags ready for TGV to Biarritz. Relieved to only have to remove front wheels. Other passengers on the train also heading for the Camino (some from Prague).
At Biarritz re-assembled the bikes on an empty platform and ride 4km to our hotel for the night.
Despite apprehensions about getting our non-booked bikes on the TGV it was an excellant day.
Our comment for the day was that everyone we met was very pleasant and helpful, a good omen for our cycling holiday/pilgrimage.

9miles - total 24miles.

Day2 Wed 4th Sept Biarritz to St Jean Pied de Port

Went to ¨La Poste¨ to send bike bags home using automated scales - it took three staff members to assist!
As with all journeys, getting out of town on the right road is the hardest bit. Soon we were on the road heading to St Jean Pied de Port - the official start of the Camino de Frances. When traffic died down we were able to enjoy a very pleasant ride through winding scenic valleys following river and railway. At St JPdeP we registered at the Pilgrim Bureau and got our Pilgrim Passes - complete with first stamp. We will be collecting further stamps as we go. This is will be required in Santiago as evidence that we have completed the journey. Stayed 4km out of town, but went back on bikes to SJPdeP for evening meal where we met and were greeted by many fellow travellers incl Australians, Swiss, and many other nations incl a few British. Back to Hotel and finished the day by eating ice-cream in the hotel garden at dusk.

Tomorrow we head over the Pyrenees and into Spain. Very French/Basque around here.

45miles - total 69miles

Tony and Dan - evening meal in St Jean PdeP

Prologue to our Camino

Four cyclists John, Tony, another Tony and Dan regularly meet to cycle the lanes of Hertfordshire. This month we are cycling 'El Camino de Santiago de Compostela' following the 'Camino Frances'. This is an ancient walking pilgrim route of 800km from South-West France to the shrine of St James in Galicia in North-West Spain. But we are doing it on bikes.

All cycling Grand Tours  (La Giro, Le Tour and La Vuelta), have a prologue. Ours is no different. We are staying the first night in North London and then getting the 0701 Eurostar to Paris, cycling across Paris to Gare Montparnasse and taking a TGV to Biarritz, where we stay the night.

The next day we start our ride by setting off to St Jean Pied de Port, where various routes from across France and Europe converge to become the 'Camino Frances' to Santiago.

Is this a cycling holiday or a pilgrimage? Perhaps the ratio between the two will keep changing as we go along!

We hope to give updates on our 'Camino'.