Epilogue to our Camino

Epilogue - well we had a Prologue

• We would recommend cycling or walking the Camino de Santiago de Compostela to anyone.
• Can be done in sections, over a number years.
• Great fellowship and camaraderie en route.
• No major mechanical or medical problems.
• Food was good standard and cheap.
• No language problems - even when resorting to sign language!
• Good will from Spanish locals all along the way.

We have heard that many of you have been following us on the blog and journeying with us in spirit.

Sorry that some who have tried have not been able to add comments.

Day 17

Day 17 Thurs 19th Sept Santiago last day

Final packing and clearing up the apartment, down to the courier to send home bikes, helmets and one pannier each. Left second pannier there for later collection and went for coffee before turning up (we thought early) for the noon Pilgrim Mass.

Cathedral was already quite full with all seats gone, but we managed to squeeze into gaps in a few pews in one of the transepts. Mass was preceded by announcements of where pilgrims had come from and which of the many Camino routes they had used, and a music rehearsal. As noon approached more people were coming into the Cathedral and were standing in the aisles.
Mass was impressive and at the end we witnessed the lighting of the 'Batafumeiro'. This is a large incense burner suspended from the roof and is hauled into place by eight men, and then swung across the main aisle from transept to transept, getting near to the ceiling on each side - a long standing tradition in Santiago.

Stroll around the town and a late lunch before collecting our panniers from the courier. Three bikes were being sent to Tony G's house and we enquired about expected delivery date. 'Tuesday' we were told and Tony realised he is going to Paris that day and won't be home. (Kev you better check he is not leading the 40+ ride on Tues).

Airport bus for 3Euros each, flights to Gatwick and train home. Tony O and Dan made it by 11-30pm, while Tony G and John got caught by delayed trains and replacement bus services getting home by 2am.

1mile - total 610 (got to include the ride to the courier!!)  about 970km

Lighting of the Batafumeiro

Batafumeiro swing across the transepts

Day 16

Day 16 Wed 18th Sept Santiago to the Coast

Quick breakfast, pick up the car and drive to the coast, coffee stop before getting to Fisterra - the end of the world. Visited the Cabo de Fisterra and lighthouse (uphill stage finish in 2013 Vuelta Espana), where Dan met a guy from Cork - at home he buys his daily newspaper from Dan's sister Maggie's shop - it's still a small world!!

After lunch we went on to Muxia which we are sure is better in high summer than at the end of the season.
In the evening we joined up with Pete and Sue from Watford (we met them on Day12) to share stories - they promise to try and join us on a FortyPlus CC St Albans Tuesday ride soon!!

0miles - total still 609 (excluding 150miles in car)

View towards Fisterra

Cabo Fisterra, and Camino 0km stone

Day 15

Day 15 Tue 17th Sep Santiago

After breakfast we went to check out the "MailBox" office we were to use to send bikes home on Thurs, all OK. Ambled around town and visited the interesting market. Relaxed lunch in a square and carried on wandering around the narrow pedestrian only area which is the 'historic centre' of Santiago. Went past the Pilgrim Bureau to see long queues of new arrivals in town, holding their passports eager to get their 'Compostela'.

Yesterday we got our certificate and today some of us got the tee-shirts - well we got Camino cycling jerseys. In the square outside the Cathedral among many new arrivals, we met four rugged and fit cyclists from Phoenix CC in Belfast - they had just completed the Camino completely off-road in a much quicker time than us!

We were interested in going to the coast - a bit too far to cycle so we went to the Tourist Office to see about trips, and ended up hiring a car for tomorrow.

In the evening went for a meal - in the same restaurant as David, David, Brendan and Gerry from Belfast. Plenty of banter with them and sharing of experiences. Also with some volunteers who are here for a fortnight working in the Pigrim Bureau, helping new arrivals and issuing them with their 'Compostelas'.

Dan and Tony O on way into town

Tony G looking for a bargain in the market

0 miles - total remains as 609

Day 14

Day 14 Mon 16th Sept Salceda to Santiago

Short hilly stage into Santiago. On the ´Grand Tours´ they would be sipping champagne as they approach the finish - but not for us. Stopped at City boundary to take photos and chatted to walkers from many countries.
Into the city and the Cathedral. Went to the Pilgrim Office (manned by volunteers from Tunbridge Wells) to get our ´Compostela´. This is a latin document certifying completion of the journey, demonstrated by the stamps in our passports collected along the way.

Tony G phoned Victor for our 2bedroom, 2 bathroom apartment with all facilities - including garden and bike storage in lounge behind the sofa! (don´t tell Victor). It is only 300m from the Cathedral.

Went to evening Pilgrim Mass and visited the sepulchre of St James (Sant Iago) and embraced the the statue above the high altar.

Went for a meal and chose a lively restaurant with great atmosphere full of locals. Sitting at the next table were Magda and Hugo - our Belgian cycling friends who we have met many times on the Camino.

Tony G insisted on taking us back via a short cut through the park.

Santiago City Limits!

Outside the Cathedral

Evening Pilgrim Mass

St James´ Relics below high altar

John, Hugo, Magda and Dan

Cathredral from our Apartment

19miles - total 609 (540miles from St Jean Pied de Port)

Day 13

Day 13 Sun 15th Sept Samos to Salceda

Books said today would be a hard day - so up early and on road by 8am (7am UK time so lights needed!). 8 Miles to Sarria for breakfast, then another 17miles for lunch at noon at Gonzar. We carried on via Palas de Rei to Melide for afternoon refreshments. Met the Belgain couple again who were staying in the hotel/restaurant.

As forecast today was full of ups and downs - we feel the hills aggregated into the big climbs of recent days. We are continuing to enjoy good weather - chilly mornings, hot afternoons, no rain, and wall to wall blue skies!

Staying at Aubergue Touristico, which was difficult to find but a newly built and lovely venue with interesting architecture. From the 9.50Euro menu Dan chose chicken, but was presented with what appeared to be lamb shanks. Chef was called and claimed this was not a supermarket chicken but locally reared like a turkey - agreed to replace with ordinary chicken. After consumption of the inclusive vino tinto and vino blanco this produced much merriment for the rest of the evening. For further details please discuss with Dan - but allow plenty of time!

Great scenery, great weather

66 miles total 590

Day 12

Day 12 Sat 14th Sep Villafranca del Bierzo to Samos

Today was to be the highest climb of the whole trip. After one hour climbing passed Belgian and NZ couples on bikes. We also  met a couple from Watford on hired bikes who prepared by doing a couple of trips on the towpath from Watford to Uxbridge - possible candidates for Forty Plus  CC St Albans rides. They are on the same flights as us going home - so drinks in the departure lounge. We kept on meeting the Belgian couple throughout the day.

The climb continued unabated to O´Cebreiro before lunch, where we had a long chat with a couple from Birmingham.

After a few ups and downs we has  a fast and furious descent for 10km - great fun for boys of all ages.

Ice creams and the final 10km took us to Samos. Here is the largest and oldest monastery in Spain - paid for for a tour with a only Spanish guide - we was robbed! An option was Mass followed by blessing of pilgrims in the Abbey church - then a 10Euro pilgrim Menu and so to bed.

Top of O'Cebreiro

42 miles - total 524